INGREDIENTS: distilled water, cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20, pseudoalteromonas ferment extract (and) acetyl tripeptide-30 (and) pentapeptide-18, pumpkin seed extract, oatmeal, shea butter, camellia seed oil, jojoba oil, Poria cocos polysaccharide, rosehip seed oil, cetyl esters, MSM, cornstarch, tocopherol, hyaluronic acid, gluconolactone (and) sodium benzoate, fragrance, EDTA.
Cetearyl alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20: This is the emulsifier in the formula. An emulsifier is a compound that is able to bind to both polar and nonpolar molecules in a solution. In skincare, an emulsifier is what holds the oil and water phases of the formula together. There are lots of different types of emulsifiers, with different properties. This particular emulsifier is what is known as an ‘oil in water’ emulsifier, because it emulsifies a small oil phase in a larger water phase.
Pseudoalteromonas ferment extract (and) Acetyl tripeptide-30 (and) Pentapeptide-18: This is a complex of molecules that work to protect connective tissue from degradation, help reconstruct extracellular matrix components, provide a wound healing effect and reduce skin tension.
Pumpkin Seed Extract: This active ingredient functions by stimulating the synthesis of collagen and by inhibiting the activity of enzymes which contribute to its degradation. It has been shown to smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Oatmeal (colloidal): Colloidal oatmeal is finely ground oatmeal (44 micrometer particle size) that acts as a skin soother and moisturizer.
Shea butter: One of my all-time favorite skincare ingredients! This butter is obtained from the karite tree, and it’s also a great source of antioxidants like quercetin, epicatechin gallate, gallocatechin, epigallocatechin, as well as skin-nourishing fatty acids (stearic and linoleic). It also penetrates skin readily. This is just such a wonderful ingredient for skin.
Jojoba oil: Jojoba oil is a lightweight, fast-absorbing oil with a structure similar to that of sebum, which is produced by the skin. It is a great emollient to use in formulas for oily/combo skin because it won’t cause breakouts. In this formula, it is present as a fast-absorbing emollient.
Camellia seed oil: Camellia seed oil is a fast-absorbing oil with antioxidant activity. It is present in this formula as an emollient.
Rosehip oil: Rosehip seed oil has loads of antioxidants and unsaturated fatty acids, so it is very anti-inflammatory. In this formula, it is present as an emollient and anti-inflammatory active.
Poria cocos polysaccharide: This polysaccharide extract from Poria cocos, a fungus used extensively in Asian medicine, has been shown to increase skin thickness by upregulating the CD44 receptor on skin cells, leading to more effective HA binding. The binding of hyaluronic acid to CD44 strengthens tissue and helps with cell differentiation. It also boosts collagen production.
Cetyl esters: This ingredient provides ‘slip’ to the formula, allowing the product to slide more easily across skin. It also acts as a thickener.
MSM (methylsulfonylmethane): MSM is a sulfur compound that speeds up wound remodeling, reduces inflammation, and also acts as a penetration enhancer. Penetration enhancers allow ingredients access to deeper skin layers. I use MSM in this formula for its penetration enhancing abilities. Since cleansers are only on your skin for a short time, using a penetration enhancer in cleanser formulas allows for greater contact between skin and ingredients.
Cornstarch: This ingredient acts as a thickener in this formula.
Tocopherol: Tocopherol is Vitamin E, and acts as a preservative in this formula, preventing the oxidation of the oils in the product and increasing the shelf life.
Hyaluronic acid: HA is one of skin’s own natural moisturizing factors. It is hygroscopic, meaning it is able to pull moisture from its environment, which makes it great for a non-greasy addition to formulas meant to moisturize skin. It has antioxidant and antibacterial activity as well. The form used in this formula has been hydrolyzed (chopped into small pieces) in order to penetrate more deeply into skin.
Gluconolactone (and) Sodium benzoate: This is the main preservative in this formula. It prevents the growth of bacteria, mold, fungus, yeast, etc.
Fragrance: This is the scent that is added to the product. Fragrance oil manufacturers are not required by law to disclose what compounds are in their fragrance oils. However, some will tell you what is NOT in their fragrance oils, and I base my fragrance oil purchases on this information. I make sure my fragrance oils are free of phthalates and known carcinogens. Because fragrance may be a source of irritation in a product formula, I offer all my products fragrance free as well as scented.
EDTA: EDTA is a metal ion chelator. This means that it scours the solution for metal ions, and once it finds them, it binds them very tightly, which makes them no longer a danger. Metal ions are highly reactive molecules that can cause oxidative damage to proteins, lipids, and DNA in cells. They are known to cause allergic reactions in skin, and generate inflammation.