Is your skin oily but also dry?

I hear this all the time from folks who write me for skincare advice. I have dubbed it ‘Schrodinger’s Skin’ cause I’m a weirdo like that, lol.

Quantum theory jokes aside, there is no world in which your skin type is both oily and dry. Your skin type is oily, and you’ve stripped it with a product that you are using, which is why it’s dry. The industry’s answer to this is to sell you a facial oil or moisturizer to address the dryness caused by their products. Which is some bullshit. 💩

I’m here to tell you that you don’t need to buy oils or moisturizers to solve this problem. What you need to do is look at what you are using now and figure out which product is stripping your skin and get rid of it. (90% of the time, it’s your face wash.) What is happening is that you are using too-strong products that not only remove sebum, but also remove water-soluble moisturizing factors from your skin. The result is that your skin tells your oil glands it is dehydrated, so they go into overdrive to replace what was lost. This is why your skin feels dry after washing, yet gets more and more oily as the day goes on. So then you use your too-strong products again, which strips your skin again, causing overproduction of oil again, and around and around you go.

Foaming face washes, castile soap, cetaphil, bar soap, and face washes with benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid are all products that can cause the ‘oily but dry’ situation. Using too many oil control products at once can also cause this situation. To get off this ride, I suggest using a mild, anti-inflammatory face wash like Skin Zen or Calming Cleanser as your primary face wash, and only using your oil control face wash a couple of times a week. Or, if all your products are oil control, switching out everything except one product to something lightweight and anti-inflammatory. The best way to control oily skin is not to nuke it from space.

Here is an example of a regimen for combination skin using my products:
DAY 1: WASH: Calming Cleanser; TONE: spritz on any toner and let air dry or wipe it off. MOISTURIZE: Mattifying Serum (oil control), No Baggage Eye Gel/Skin Zen Eye cream/New 20 Eye Cream and Zit Zapper as needed.

DAY 2: WASH: Five Fruit exfoliating face wash; TONE: any of my toners; MOISTURIZE: Skin Zen Serum, No Baggage Eye Gel/Skin Zen Eye cream/New 20 Eye Cream and Zit Zapper as needed.

DAY 3: WASH: Calming or Skin Zen face wash; TONE: any of my toners; MOISTURIZE: Mattifying Serum, No Baggage Eye Gel/Skin Zen Eye cream/New 20 Eye Cream, and Zit Zapper as needed.

DAY 4: WASH: Five Fruit exfoliating face wash; TONE: any of my toners; MOISTURIZE: Skin Zen Serum, No Baggage Eye Gel/Skin Zen Eye cream/New 20 Eye Cream, and Zit Zapper as needed.

NOTE: if your skin has reached the point where it’s crazy dry and irritated, use Barrier Repair instead of Skin Zen Serum to moisturize.

For very oily skin/cystic acne, here is a sample regimen:
DAY 1 AM: WASH: Anti-Acne face wash (it is coming back shortly!); TONE: any of my toners; MOISTURIZE: Mattifying Serum OR, if that is too much and/or it gets very hot where you live, you can skip moisturizing as long as your skin isn’t dry. Then, No Baggage Eye Gel/Skin Zen Eye cream/New 20 Eye Cream and Zit Zapper as needed.
DAY 1 PM: WASH: Calming or Skin Zen cleanser; TONE: any of my toners; MOISTURIZE: Skin Zen or Barrier Repair Serums, then No Baggage Eye Gel/Skin Zen Eye cream/New 20 Eye Cream.

DAY 2 AM: WASH: Calming or Skin Zen cleanser; TONE: any of my toners; MOISTURIZE: Mattifying Serum, unless it’s too much for your skin, No Baggage Eye Gel/Skin Zen Eye cream/New 20 Eye Cream, and Zit Zapper as needed.
DAY 2 PM: WASH: Skin Zen or Calming cleanser; TONE: any of my toners; MOISTURIZE: Mattifying Serum, No Baggage Eye Gel/Skin Zen Eye cream/New 20 Eye Cream, and Zit Zapper as needed.

DAY 3 AM: WASH Anti-Acne face wash; TONE: any of my toners; MOISTURIZE: Skin Zen Serum, No Baggage Eye Gel/Skin Zen Eye cream/New 20 Eye Cream, and Zit Zapper as needed.
DAY 3 PM: WASH: Calming or Skin Zen cleanser; TONE: any of my toners; MOISTURIZE: Mattifying Serum, No Baggage Eye Gel/Skin Zen Eye cream/New 20 Eye Cream, and Zit Zapper as needed.

These are sample regimens, but hopefully you get a sense of how to use oil control products without sending your skin into that ugly cycle of stripping/overproduction of oil. You don’t want to go too hard on your acne, because it ends up creating a worse situation for you. By backing off of the too-strong products and using fewer of them at a time, it’s possible to control breakouts without becoming ‘oily but dry.’ #themoreyouknow

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