Who has ‘oily but dry and sensitive’ skin? I’m about to drop some knowledge on you that will make your skin happy.

Your skin is NOT oily and dry and sensitive. Your skin is sensitive because you’re drying it out, and it’s dry because you’re drying it out with your products. WAAAAAAAAYYYYYY too many of you are using products that are much too strong and that is causing the dryness and irritation you’re experiencing. If you have a couple of pimples and start using an anti-acne face wash, or if you get hormonal acne and treat your entire face with anti-acne products, or, if you are using a bar soap or castile soap/Dr. Bronner’s on your face, you are doing it wrong. You will end up damaging your skin and causing it to age prematurely by engaging in this behavior.

‘But Dr. Jen, what am I supposed to do?’ First and foremost, put down the fucking too-strong face washes. Your skin should not be washed with a product that also cleans floors (castile soap), or with crazy harsh detergents that rip all the moisturizing factors out of your skin in seconds. What happens is that you destroy your protective moisture barrier, which will result in your skin becoming more sensitive and dry. THEN, because your skin no longer has any moisturizing factors, it goes into overdrive to replace them, which leads to more breakouts, so you keep using the too-harsh face washes to get rid of your breakouts, and around and around you go. Many of you have been on this ride for years, and it is time to stop before your skin starts to show wear and tear from this treatment.

Whenever I do a consult with someone experiencing this skin situation, I suggest the following regimen, which works really really well. NOTE: I will be talking about my products, but that does not mean only my products will solve this problem for you.

WASH: I always have people in this position wash with my SKIN ZEN FACE WASH. This face wash is extremely mild, always fragrance free, and full of anti-inflammatory actives to reduce your skin’s redness and irritation. It will not strip your skin of needed moisturizing factors and will get your skin back to normal quickly.

In the immediate short-term, even if your skin is super oily, DO NOT EXFOLIATE. Give your skin 1-2 weeks without exposing it to exfoliators. After that time, you can incorporate an exfoliating face wash into your regimen. Do not ever exfoliate more than once a day, and never more often than every other day for the oiliest skin, 2-3X a week for combo skin, and once a week for dry and normal skin. Hormonal acne sufferers, treat your jawline as acneic and the rest of your skin as normal, do not overexfoliate the areas that aren’t breaking out. My FIVE FRUIT FACE WASH is good for all skin types, but works best for folks with dry/normal/combo/moderately acneic skin. For hormonal/cystic/severe acne, you will need to kick it up a notch. For that, my ANTI-ACNE FACE WASH is a better option, but still no more often than every other day, once a day. This face wash contains 2% salicylic acid, which is a chemical exfoliant.

TONE: Toner is so important, but everyone treats it like a red-headed stepchild. Toner hydrates skin and restores it to its resting pH, so it is clean and ready for moisturizer. I harp on toner so much because my serums, eye creams, and moisturizers are all formulated for maximum active ingredient delivery to skin ONLY AT RESTING PH. So, if you bought some Reclaiming My Time Serum for $50 and you don’t tone after washing, all those fantastic anti-wrinkle actives will NOT go into your skin where they will lessen wrinkles, they will simply sit on the skin’s surface until they fall apart.

I have deep Sea Breeze toner trauma from my teen years, so my toners are not astringent. I really x 10^23 hate astringent toners, because if you don’t have oily skin, they strip needed moisture out of the skin. If you do have oily skin, you do not handle it with a toner, and if you’re using anti-acne products, an astringent toner will just strip your skin too. All of my toners are anti-inflammatory instead of astringent. Because they are all functionally equivalent, you can choose any of them.

MOISTURIZE: Because your skin is damaged, it’s important to restore barrier function and replenish your skin’s natural moisturizing factors. I always have clients who are ‘oily but dry’ use my BARRIER REPAIR SERUM for this purpose. It is lightweight enough that it won’t overload oily skin types, and it contains both ceramides and hyaluronic acid, which are moisturizing factors. It will help restore your skin to its previous state. If you still feel a little dry after applying the serum, you can apply SKIN ZEN NIGHT CREAM over it to moisturize and reduce inflammation.

This regimen should fix your skin right up after 1-2 weeks. At that point, you can continue the regimen if you like what it’s doing, or you can switch to different products. If your skin is very oily, I definitely recommend adding a decent exfoliating product to this regimen after 2 weeks, as simply reducing inflammation will not manage your breakouts effectively.

Okay, gotta go make the Fissure King! #themoreyouknow

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.