INGREDIENTS: distilled water, cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20, shea butter, rose butter, tomato seed oil, sunflower oil, oatmeal, lactobacillus/nereocystis luetkeana ferment filtrate, black tea extract, lupinus albus seed extract, poria cocos polysaccharide, stevia rebaudiana leaf/stem extract, cornstarch, cetyl esters, tocopherol, gluconolactone (and) sodium benzoate, fragrance, EDTA
Cetearyl alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20: This is the emulsifier in the formula. An emulsifier is a compound that is able to bind to both polar and nonpolar molecules in a solution. In skincare, an emulsifier is what holds the oil and water phases of the formula together. There are lots of different types of emulsifiers, with different properties. This particular emulsifier is what is known as an ‘oil in water’ emulsifier, because it emulsifies a small oil phase in a larger water phase.
Shea butter: One of my all-time favorite skincare ingredients! This butter is obtained from the karite tree, and it’s also a great source of antioxidants like quercetin, epicatechin gallate, gallocatechin, epigallocatechin, as well as skin-nourishing fatty acids (stearic and linoleic). It also penetrates skin readily. This is just such a wonderful ingredient for skin.
Rose butter: This is a hard butter infused with rose essence. It is functioning as an emollient and skin soother in this formula.
Tomato seed oil: This medium-weight oil is loaded with vitamins and minerals that skin needs for optimal health. It has a high concentration of lycopene, Vitamin E compounds, linoleic acid, phytosterols, and carotenoids help to smooth and soften skin, improving the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
Sunflower oil: I love, love, LOVE sunflower seed oil! It’s really great for dry, dehydrated, or otherwise compromised skin because its linoleic acid content helps skin to make its own lipids, including ceramides, which are critical for proper barrier function. Sunflower seed oil also has a natural soothing effect on skin, making it great for reducing skin irritation.
Oatmeal (colloidal): Colloidal oatmeal is finely ground oatmeal (44 micrometer particle size) that acts as a skin soother and moisturizer.
Sea Kelp Bioferment: Sea kelp bioferment is a natural kelp extract that has been derived by fermentation of sea kelp by Lactobacillus, the same bacteria that produces yogurt, sour cream and sour dough breads, among many other foods. Fermentation breaks down the cellular tissue of the kelp leaf, thereby increasing the bioavailability of the naturally occurring chemical compounds abundant in kelp. It is a potent film-former, and is also quite moisturizing without being greasy.
Lupinus albus seed extract: Extract from white lupine seeds that has been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis, increasing skin’s firmness and elasticity.
Poria cocos polysaccharide: This polysaccharide extract from Poria cocos, a fungus used extensively in Asian medicine, has been shown to increase skin thickness by upregulating the CD44 receptor on skin cells, leading to more effective HA binding. The binding of hyaluronic acid to CD44 strengthens tissue and helps with cell differentiation. It also boosts collagen production.
Cornstarch: This ingredient acts as a thickener in this formula.
Cetyl esters: This ingredient provides ‘slip’ to the formula, allowing the product to slide more easily across skin. It also acts as a thickener.
Stevia Extract: This extract from the leaf and stem of the stevia plant has retinol-like activity, in that it stimulates skin cell turnover, which can lead to lessening of wrinkles, a brighter complexion, and firmer, more elastic skin.
Black Tea Extract/Caffeine: In skin, caffeine has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and it also can constrict skin, thus reducing puffiness. Its function in this formula is the latter.
Tocopherol: Tocopherol is Vitamin E, and acts as a preservative in this formula, preventing the oxidation of the oils in the product and increasing the shelf life.
Gluconolactone (and) Sodium benzoate: This is the main preservative in this formula. It prevents the growth of bacteria, mold, fungus, yeast, etc.
Fragrance: This is the scent that is added to the product. Fragrance oil manufacturers are not required by law to disclose what compounds are in their fragrance oils. However, some will tell you what is NOT in their fragrance oils, and I base my fragrance oil purchases on this information. I make sure my fragrance oils are free of phthalates and known carcinogens. Because fragrance may be a source of irritation in a product formula, I offer all my products fragrance free as well as scented.
EDTA: EDTA is a metal ion chelator. This means that it scours the solution for metal ions, and once it finds them, it binds them very tightly, which makes them no longer a danger. Metal ions are highly reactive molecules that can cause oxidative damage to proteins, lipids, and DNA in cells. They are known to cause allergic reactions in skin, and generate inflammation.